Local NewsApril 7, 2010
Commentary: By Martha Stewart
Make cut flowers bug-free
Make cut flowers bug-free
Make cut flowers bug-free
Make cut flowers bug-free
Make cut flowers bug-free
Make cut flowers bug-free
Make cut flowers bug-free
Make cut flowers bug-free

Dear Martha: When cutting flowers to bring indoors, how can I prevent carrying in bugs as well?

One of the benefits of keeping a well-tended garden is having a house full of fresh flowers throughout the spring and summer months. But as welcome as those just-cut blooms are, the insects that accompany them are another story.

To make sure you're not bringing more than you bargained for inside, it's always smart to take a few minutes to look over the flowers you're planning to cut. Examine all parts of the flowers, including petals, leaves and stems, for signs of infestation.

It is easiest to spot insects in the morning when they're most active. This is also the best time to cut flowers for their own sake, since they've had the cooler nighttime temperatures to restore their strength.

If you see bugs, hose them off with a gentle stream of water; if the infestation is severe, mix a solution of 1/2 teaspoon of mild dishwashing soap and 1 quart of water and apply it with a spray bottle. After you've treated your flowers, allow them to drip-dry for a few minutes before cutting them, then immediately place the stems into a container filled with water. Once you bring the blooms into your house, inspect them again for bugs, and rinse off any insects under the faucet.

Dear Martha: Do you have any advice for making a compost heap?

Adding compost to your soil dramatically improves its nutrient and moisture retention and its texture. The secret to building a good heap is composing it of equal amounts brown and green (gardening terms for dry and wet) materials. This creates a balanced environment in which the microorganisms that break down organic plant matter will thrive. As the matter breaks down, the compost will turn from waste into a valuable amendment.

Green, or wet, material includes garden waste such as grass clippings, fresh leaves, stems and flowers. Some kitchen waste, such as fruits, vegetables, tea bags and coffee grounds, also counts as green material. So do grain products, such as bread or pasta, though these should be added sparingly.

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Brown, or dry, material includes dead leaves, dry hay or straw, wood chips, sawdust, and old potting soil. Brown materials are usually plentiful in the fall; a good year-round alternative is shredded newspaper (colored or glossy papers should be saved for conventional paper recycling). Newspaper should be torn into thin strips and added in such a way that it will not stick together and form an impenetrable mat - disperse strips here and there without creating thick layers.

Seeds (especially those from weeds), as well as insect-infested or diseased plants, should never be added to the pile, as they could spread to your garden through the finished compost. All animal products should be avoided, including milk products. Refrain also from adding wood chips or sawdust from treated lumber, as the chemicals are harmful. If you cannot be certain that something ought to be composted, keep it out of the pile.

Buy or make a compost bin, or pile material in an inconspicuous area of the garden. Position the heap in a convenient place so adding to it doesn't become a chore. Avoid composting on or against wooden surfaces, as these will gradually decompose along with the compost. Begin your pile by alternately layering brown and green materials in 2- to 4-inch layers. Aim for an eventual size of 3 square feet.

Once you have started your pile, wet it down with a hose. It should always be about as moist as a wrung-out sponge - too much or too little water can slow down or even stop the composting process. For that reason, have a means of covering your pile in times of heavy rain.

You may want to turn it periodically, using a pitchfork to mix old and new layers, as well as the greens with the browns; the compost will be ready sooner if you do.

Once your pile is 3 feet high, stop adding to it, and let it rot. If you have additional material, start a second pile. If your pile is turned and kept at an appropriate moisture level, expect it to be ready in six months to two years.

Finished compost should have no bad odors, and it should be uniformly decomposed. It will be rich brown and crumbly. Remember that it's a soil amendment, not soil, so don't grow plants in pure compost.

Stewart's magazine and television shows focus on lifestyles. Questions may be addressed to Ask Martha, care of Letters Department, Martha Stewart Living, 601 West 26th Street, 9th floor, New York, N.Y. 10001. Questions may also be sent by e-mail to: mslletters@marthastewart.com. Letters should include a name, address and daytime telephone number.

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