Three choices for turkey: classic, chili-rubbed or bourbon-glazed

We have been giving thanks for several hundred years, gathering with friends and family at autumn tables starring an American classic: a plump turkey, roasted golden brown. Its preparation and consumption has changed little: Stuff it. Roast it. Stuff yourself.

What makes it an American classic? Its individuality. Each cook, each family mixes its tastes and heritage into its stuffings and sauces. Already have a family favorite or looking for inspiration? Here is a trio of recipes for the basic bird.

TRADITIONAL ROAST TURKEY

This traditional Thanksgiving bird recipe has appeared in the Chicago Tribune for years, with stuffings from a cornbread mix to an apple-hazelnut version, and the pan juices turned into gravy.

Prep: Rinse turkey (about 14 pounds) under cold water; pat dry. Rub inside of turkey with salt. Spoon 10 to 12 cups stuffing loosely into cavity and neck of bird. Close openings with kitchen string; tuck wings underneath; tie legs together. Put turkey onto oiled rack in a roasting pan. Rub outside of turkey with melted butter. Tuck fresh sage leaves inside and under skin.

Roast: Place in 425-degree oven. Roast uncovered, 30 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees; roast until internal temperature is 165 degrees on meat thermometer, 2 to 21/2 hours. Baste turkey occasionally with butter or any pan juices.

Rest: Transfer turkey to platter; tent loosely with foil. Let stand 20 minutes before carving. Make gravy from pan drippings.

BOURBON ROAST TURKEY

Adapted from "The Beekman 1802 Heirloom Cookbook," by Brent Ridge and Josh Kilmer-Purcell (Sterling Epicure); the authors bake a cornbread stuffing on the side. Follow the steps for traditional roast turkey, adapting as follows.

Prep: Mix 1/4 cup coarse salt, 1 tablespoon sugar and 2 teaspoons ancho chili powder in a small bowl. Carefully run fingers under breast and thigh skin to loosen; season under skin with a third of salt mix. Rub remaining mixture in cavity and all over skin. Pierce 1 orange and 1 lime and halve 1 onion; stuff them into cavity with 2 bay leaves and 3 cloves garlic, unpeeled. Tuck wing tips and truss your 14-pound turkey as before.

Glaze: Heat 3/4 cup maple syrup, 2 tablespoons each molasses and brown sugar, and 1 tablespoon Worcestershire to a simmer in a small saucepan; cook 5 minutes.

Roast: Set turkey on rack in roasting pan; add neck and giblets to pan. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Pour 2 cups bourbon into pan. Pour two-thirds of the glaze over turkey; set aside remaining third. Cover roasting pan; or oil a large sheet of foil, cover pan, oil side down. Roast about 31/4 hours. Uncover pan. Brush turkey with reserved glaze. Roast uncovered until breast meat registers 165 degrees on a meat thermometer, 30 minutes.

Rest: As before.

ROASTED TURKEY WITH RED CHILIES

In "Simple Food, Big Flavor," chef Aaron Sanchez (Atria Books; $26.99) roasts the chili-rubbed turkey unstuffed and incorporates some chili mixture into a pan gravy.

Chili colorado sauce: Put 3 medium onions, quartered; 8 fresh tomatillos, husked, washed; 4 plum tomatoes, cored, quartered; and 8 cloves garlic, peeled, on a baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil. Cook under broiler without turning until they begin to char, about 7 minutes. Remove; cool. Stem, seed and devein 1 ancho and 2 guajillo chilies. Toast chilies in dry skillet over medium-low heat, turning once, just until aromatic, 1 minute. Put chilies in a bowl. Cover with hot water; soak 30 minutes. Drain and discard water. Working in batches, puree vegetables and chilies in blender with 4 cups chicken stock until smooth. Transfer to a bowl; season with salt and pepper to taste. (The sauce makes more than you will need; use leftovers to marinade chicken, pork or beef.)

Prep: The day before roasting, pat skin of a 14-pound turkey dry. Sprinkle with salt; rub 1 teaspoon salt in cavity. Rub 1/2 cup chili sauce over turkey; reach under skin to rub into breast meat. Rub some in cavity. Wrap neck skin over cavity; tuck under body; tuck wing tips under breast. Set turkey on rack in roasting pan; cover loosely with plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight.

Roast: An hour before roasting, remove turkey from refrigerator; let stand uncovered. Set oven rack in lower third of oven; heat oven to 350 degrees. Rub 2 tablespoons unsalted butter over turkey skin. Add 1 cup water to roasting pan; roast 1 hour. Remove turkey from oven; brush surface with 1/2 cup sauce. Add another cup water to pan. Tent turkey loosely with foil; return to oven. Roast until breast meat registers 165 degrees on a meat thermometer, 2 to 3 hours. Check occasionally after 2 hours; add a little more water to pan as needed.

Rest: As before. Make gravy, using 1/2 cup chili sauce.